Monday, April 23, 2012

Connector panels with captive thumb screws | V and F Sheet Metal

Monday, April 23rd, 2012

Connector panels with captive thumb screws

Sheet metal connector panels with captive thumb screws.
Simple solution saves plenty of time in service. Have you ever unscrewed a rear panel from some equipment to drop the screws inside, not any more with this simple engineering solution. We can manufacture your sheet metal panels and then insert captive spring loaded thumb screws ready for you to use. They can be done up tight with a screw driver or simply tightened with finger pressure if needed. The example shown here has been pressed into mild steel sheet metal and will be powder coated black. The captive thumb screws can be inserted after painting or plating / anodising if required making it a very versatile solution.

For more details please contact us and we can look at your sheet metal design and see where we can help.

Friday, April 20, 2012

KX3The first 24 hours | Amateur Radio Weblog by KD0BIK

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As previously mentioned, my KX3 shipped from the Elecraft factory on Tuesday afternoon and was delivered to me in Denver, Colorado via USPS Priority Mail Service.  I’ve gotta say for the price, USPS Priority service is the best way to go in most cases.   Of course this blog post is not about shipping services and I’ll move on.

Over the past couple of weeks I’ve seen some awesome Youtube videos from hams who have received their new KX3.  I see no reason to re-invent the wheel, just search Youtube for Elecraft KX3 and you’ll find these. 

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My Elecraft KX3 is serial number 57.  Perhaps s/n 59 would have been cool, but I’m happy nonetheless.  I spent a little bit of time with my KX3 the first evening.  I took the time to attach Anderson Powerpoles onto the supplied power cable.  I adjusted the tilt legs on the back.  Which by the way, in recent days I’ve noticed a lot of discussion on the Yahoo KX3 reflector dedicated to the discussion of the tilt legs.  I’ve seen no issues with any binding of the thumb screws.  You just need to gently loosen the thumbscrew, lower the tilt leg into position and then re-tighten the thumbscrew.  Repeat for the other side.  It really is that simple.

I grabbed a short coax jumper and connected the KX3 to my Hustler 6BTV.  I clicked the band switch until the KX3 was in the 40m band and turned the VFO.  While doing so I read through the manual and tried out many of the features of this remarkable radio. 

For the most part, my KX3 will be used for SOTA or Summits On The Air and will replace my Yaesu FT-817.  At this time, I’m not planning to purchase the Elecraft amplifier which would most certainly turn this little radio into a nice shack rig.  I already own a Yaesu FT-950 which I use primarily for SSB and run digital modes from my Yaesu FT-897.  I’m happy with what both of these transceivers do for me in the ham shack.

In all honesty, I was also pleased with my Yaesu FT-817 for field use.  I purchased it new about 4 years ago and it’s been a trusty companion for both SOTA activations as well as general portable use.  So why purchase the Elecraft KX3?

Like many of you, I began hearing about the KX3 around Dayton 2011.  I watched the videos and did some research into Elecraft.  Everything I read, heard and watched pointed to the KX3 being a fantastic radio.  Then in the fall of 2011, I was bitten by the SOTA bug.  Chasing quickly turned into activating and now I’m lucky to have the opportunity to assist one of the coolest SOTA activators I know.  Of course, I’m talking about Steve Galchutt wG0AT.  Steve appointed me as the Central Colorado regional manager.  My role is to promote the Summits On the Air program as well as amateur radio.  To date, I’ve conducted three face to face SOTA presentations to local amateur radio clubs in the greater Denver area.  I’ve conducted one via Skype to a club in Washington state and I have many more lined up.  This opportunity has truly allowed me to broaden my Elmer opportunities beyond my blogging and podcasting efforts.  Thank you Steve.

So as I learned more, I realized the KX3 would become a much better SOTA performer for me than the 817.  Allow me to point out a few of the differences.

Weight – Advantage KX3

My Yaesu FT-817 weighs in at a little over 2.5 pounds.  This includes the internal FNB-85 9.6v battery pack. 

The KX3 with 8 AA batteries weighs in slightly less than 2 pounds.  While I don’t plan to operate the KX3 solely on internal power, I may not install internal batteries.  Note:  I didn’t purchase the optional KXBC3 charger. 

Size – Advantage KX3

The size differences between the 817 and KX3 are minimal.  The 817 measures in at 7 3/4 x 5 1/2 x 1 1/2 inches.  The KX3 is much more compact with measurements of 8 x 3 1/2 x 2 3/4.  Unfortunately, the comparisons I did a few weeks ago with my 2×4 prototype don’t match real KX3 comparisons.  I can still use the Lowepro Apex bag but will not pack the battery pack in side. 

Durability and Ruggedness – Advantage 817

I’ll admit this was one category I thought long and hard about.  The Yaesu FT-817 is a rugged little radio just like it’s big brother the FT-897.   I handle all my gear with care, but accidents do happen and certainly portable operations increase this chance greatly.  

Now please don’t confuse this with poor construction or design.  The KX3 design just has a larger control panel footprint.  This is great and what leads to my next category.  However, a little more surface area to get damaged from an accidental drop or other mishap.  I’ll just be extra careful.

LCD Display and Control Panel– Advantage KX3

I’m 45, will turn 46 in October.  I’ve been using reading glasses for the past 4-5 years.  Each year my prescription is bumped up a little.  I’m to the point where I can’t read anything without either holding it at arms length away from me or making sure I have my reading glasses with me. 

The LCD display on the 817 is a tiny 1.5 x 1.0 (rough measurement) screen.  However, the LCD on the KX3 is 4.75 x 1.25.  I can read the frequency or any of the other items without my reading glasses.

Portability and SOTA Readiness – Advantage KX3

While the Yaesu FT-817 is an all mode transceiver including HF, VHF and UHF operations as compared to the KX3 which today is HF/50MHz only (internal 2m module coming soon).  The lack of 2m or 70cm operations does not impact me and the way I will use the rig.  I carry the Yaesu VX8 for APRS tracking and will use that radio for any V/UHF operations.

Speaker Audio Output – Advantage 817

Elecraft has stated from the beginning that headphones or external speakers would be a must for a noisy environment.  The speaker in the KX3 is tiny and I honestly don’t see how this could have been avoided.  However, I view this as a non-issue.  I use a lightweight pair of over-the-ear ear buds for SOTA activations.  This is important as in windy conditions or even noisy band conditions, a headset or ear buds will help. 

Other Features and Functionality – Advantage KX3

I’ve truly enjoyed operating QRP and have honestly gained much more respect for QRP operations in general since being active in SOTA.  Working DX from on top of Mt. Herman (W0/FR-063) opened my eyes to what a little bit of power and a properly tuned antenna can accomplish. 

While the KX3 does offer extra transmit power from the 817, I will keep it set at 5 watts and only increase to 10 or 12w when needed.  In addition, while I’ve never packed my LDG Z-100 Auto tuner on a SOTA trip, I did order the internal ATU in the KX3.  However, I firmly believe a successful SOTA activation starts with a properly tuned antenna and will continue to stick to that process.

The VFO knob is most certainly a major difference between the KX3 and 817.  You can really crank up or down the bands with much greater precision and speed on the KX3.  In addition, the KX3 allows for direct frequency entry.  This makes easy work of tuning up and down the bands. 

Of course, another feature set that completely blows the 817 out of the water is the ability for the KX3 to decode PSK/RTTY and CW signals.  I’ve played around with this and the PSK decode is spot on.  The only problem is watching the text.  The text is displayed in an 1.5 x .5 inch area of the LCD screen.  It goes by pretty quick.  I’m experimenting (with much success) using the PSKer iOS app.  I plan to blog soon about this testing. 

In closing, and in all fairness to the Yaesu FT-817, the 817 is a great little SOTA rig.  There are many SOTA activators and other portable enthusiasts who will continue to benefit from the performance the 817 can deliver.  Just how much improved performance I’ll gain from the KX3 on a typical SOTA activation has yet to be seen.  I plan to correct this and schedule a SOTA activation in the near future. 

Until next time…

73 de KD0BIK

Thursday, April 19, 2012

aa1784bw1778der223: 10-24x2 1/2 Thumb Screw With Shoulder ...


10-24X2 1/2 Thumb Screw With Shoulder Full Thread Zinc. Thumb area enables turning by hand.
EmuAmericas 850 ALU Steel Segno Tilt Top Table, 28 in Diameter...
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Wednesday, April 18, 2012

A mystery inside a riddle... | Tom's Workbench

Pull up a chair and chat with a couple of woodworkers about – I dunno – table saws.  They’ll go on for hours yapping your ears off about horsepower, riving knives, accessories, dust collection, blade selection… the works.  How about routers? Holy smokes, where to even begin with routers?  Hand planes? You betcha – bevel up or down, Japanese or western, the best way to set the chip breaker…

How about this? Ever see woodworkers debate passionately about these?  Can you find lots of detailed books in the library about the care and feeding of them?  Probably not. An Internet search will leave you scratching your head, too.  There’ s not a lot out there.  That’s a shame, because the Stanley No. 80 cabinet scraper (and the ones made to look and work like it) is a handy tool to have around the shop for a lot of reasons. Unfortunately, your search for information may be shrouded in mystery… Heck, it took me years to figure out how to use mine!

Let’s talk for a minute about scraping. Hand scrapers, cabinet scrapers and scraper planes really don’t scrape, as it were. They work like extremely high-bevel plane irons, taking very fine shavings from the piece you are working on. What they create is known as a type III chip. This chip formation dealio was laid out shortly after World War II by a guy named Dr. Normal Franz to study the effects of cutting in industrial manufacturing . Scraping is a great way to get your project to an ultra-smooth surface – especially on highly figured wood. In fact, I like to break my scrapers out after I sand if I am looking to get the best possible finish for a project.

Many woodworkers love their card scrapers, but they can be a challenge to hold in the proper position at the proper angle for a long time.  The blade heats up, the edges can dig into your hands and your thumbs will be aching like nobody’s business.  Scraper planes are cool, but wow, some of them have big time price tags.


Then there are the cabinet scrapers.  These things are ubiquitous. You can find them at nearly every flea market, garage sale and online auction site. Why are they so plentiful?  Because they have always been – and still are – so darned handy!  These babies resemble large spokeshaves in many ways – a cast iron body with a pair of handles, a way to secure the scraper blade and a thumb screw to flex the blade to help it protrude from the bottom.

The challenge is that their blades aren’t like regular card scrapers. Those hand-held versions have square edges on all four sides and have a particular way of being prepared. The No. 80 is a different kind of animal. It’s scraper has two ends that have a 45 degree bevel on them. These bevels can both be sharpened and honed, and still need a burr turned on them to be effective.

For years, I have tried to get the one I bought online to work. Sometimes, I had moderate success. Other times, well, let’s just not go there.


One thing I have discovered recently is that my Tormek does a pretty decent job getting the blade into shape.  I can use the tool platform on the guide bars, then adjust it so the blade kisses the stone at 45 degrees. By carefully moving the blade side to side, I quickly have a well ground bevel to begin my work with.  I will then flip the blade over so the flat side is down, and I’ll give it a quick pass on the strop side.

But, wait, aren’t I trying to create a burr to do the cutting?  I sure am, but I want to control how the burr turns myself.  The quick honing gets rid of the wire edge, giving me a nice, flat surface to start with. I also give the bevel a quick roll on the strop as well. Hey, sharp is sharp!

From there, it’s a simple matter to clamp the blade in my vise and, using a screwdriver as a burnisher, roll the burr about ten degrees toward the flat back of the blade.  When you insert the blade, do it from the base up. This protects the burr you have worked so hard to create. With the blade in place, set it on a flat surface and make sure the blade is contacting that surface as well. Tighten the screws that hold the blade in place, and then every so gently turn the thumb screw until it contacts the blade.  This is your fine adjustment.. the more you tighten it, the more the blade will protrude from the bottom, taking a heavier cut.

You can push or pull the scraper, depending on how comfortable you are with it. Just keep the thumbscrew on the back side of the scraper as you work and you’ll be golden. When you are making very thin shavings, you are in the butter zone. When the blade starts to make dust, it’s time to sharpen and turn a new burr.

Once you get this baby figured out, you’ll wonder why you have gone so long without having one in the first place!  Just think of the conversations you’ll have with your woodworking friends.

Patrick Leach of Superior Tool Works has a brief introduction to the No. 80 on his site.

Replacement blades for these classic tools can be found at Hock Tools, Lee Valley Tools and many other sites.

One of the best tutorials I have seen for this tool can be found at the Lee Valley Tools site.

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Cut Gasket Material | Sealing packing

Cut Gasket
A Gaskets seal the connection between two rigid materials. The Cut Gasket material often lodges against one of the pieces entering the connection as it ages or becomes heated. Before installing a new gasket on the connection, you must remove the old gasket. Using the proper tools to remove the gasket will ensure no damage occurs to the gasket mounting flange. A damaged flange will cause leaks to form around the gasket, allowing air or fluids to bypass the seal.
1 Set the 1/4-inch plywood on a firm flat surface. Place the gasket material on top of the plywood. Using gasket cutting tools without plywood will cause damage to vital tool components.
2 Measure and mark a rectangle sized to the length and width of the final gasket size with a steel rule and paint marker. Do not use a permanent marker on rubber-based gasket material.
3 Cut along the marked lines with a utility knife, using the straight edge as a guide.
4 Mark the center of the rubber gasket material for a round Metal Corrugated Gasket or mark holes needed for fasteners on rectangle gaskets with a paint marker.
5 Set the center pin of the circle gasket cutter on the center mark of the gasket material. Loosen the thumb screw located on the side of the cutter. Slide the cutting blade(s) to the edge of the cut gasket material. Tighten the thumbscrew. While applying light pressure toward the surface of the gasket material, spin the cutter in a clockwise direction to cut the circle gasket. Adjust the cutting blades as described to cut and remove the inner section of the round gasket.
6 Align the hollow gasket cutter from the cutter set that matches the size of the hole required in the gasket material. Strike the back of the hollow gasket cutter hard with a dead-blow mallet. Pull the hollow gasket cutter from the surface of the material. If the hole plug does not come out with the hollow gasket cutter, realign the cutter blade with the scored hole and repeat the process until the plug removes from the gasket material. Repeat the process to cut all hole locations in the gasket material.
The article comes from PTFE Sheet.

This entry was posted in Exhaust System Gasket, Gasket. Bookmark the permalink.

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

canopy removal/thumb screws? - HeliFreak

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Quote:

Originally Posted by skunkworx View Post

Thumbscrews is the correct term, but skip those and look at RC Booyas instead. 10X easier to use and it's instant on/off with the canopy. They're a tad pricey, but you'll never go back once you try them.

+1 as well. Worth the price in ease of use and piece of mind

__________________
MCPX V2: DX7, KBDD, MH, XTREME
FURION 450: DX7, CANOMOD, HW, KBDD, PRO-3D, SCORPION
FURION 6 FBL: DX7, BEAST X, FUSUNO, KDE, MAVRIKK, QUICK UK, RCBOOYA, SCORPION

Steel Poles on Camper Trailer Too Tight @ ExplorOz Forum

ThreadID: 94967 Replies: 3
Views: 150 FollowUps: None

Thread Summary

AnswerID: 483406   Submitted: Tuesday, Apr 17, 2012 at 20:47

Member - MUZBRY(Vic) replied:

Gday Paul
With mine , i wipe them clean with an old towel , then slide them up and down a few times.

Muzbry
Poor little fella,whats he going to be like in a few years with an uncle like that

Reply 1 of 3

AnswerID: 483413   Submitted: Tuesday, Apr 17, 2012 at 22:27

P and JM replied:

Hi Paul,

Have seen this problem before, one cure is to pull them apart, on the inner tube look for any burrs, grooves etc caused by the tightening screw, (file down if need be) then a light rub over the inner tube with fine sand paper, and wipe with rag. Make sure it's only a LIGHT rub over them so you don't cause a rust problem in the future.

Cheers P&J

Reply 2 of 3

AnswerID: 483414   Submitted: Tuesday, Apr 17, 2012 at 22:33

Member - Josh replied:

Check there is not a slight bow in them. It doesn't take much to catch them. I use a dry lube on a couple of poles we had that stuck. As mentioned above, pull them apart and check inside pole is ok and clean.

Josh

Kidsandall
It's a big country but it's a small world

Reply 3 of 3

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